MONSTERS OF THE RAINFOREST

© DR. MARTIN AROSTEGUI

It looked as though our fishing trip had turned into a hiking expedition. We left the dugout canoe at the main river and began© DR. MARTIN AROSTEGUI sloshing our way along a jungle creek bed. Howler monkeys and tropical birds sounded through the canopy above. Before long we came upon our destination: a tranquil series of pools and waterfalls dappled in sunlight. I made a fly cast and started working a small popper through the first pool. A violent strike fractured the serenity. I pulled the hook home and a prehistoric fish with a huge head and large teeth erupted from the pool. It was the giant trahira we’d been looking for, and a possible world record. A close-quarter battle ensued. I applied as much pressure as I could without breaking the tippet and succeeded in keeping the fish within the pool. Finally, I gained the upper hand. Guide and resort owner Karel Dawson netted the fish. We quickly weighed, measured and photographed the potential world record, then released it back into the creek.

© DR. MARTIN AROSTEGUIOver the past year I’ve journeyed to the wilderness of Suriname three times in search of International Game Fish Association (IGFA) world records. Each trip has been a success, both in terms of records and the quality of the experience. The country sits north of Brazil, with a coastline facing the Atlantic, and is about the size of Ohio. Originally a Dutch colony, Suriname gained complete independence in 1975. The predominant language is Dutch, but a lot of people also speak dialects of Taki Taki, the language of the Maroon people, who are descended from African slaves. Undisturbed rainforest makes up approximately 80% of Suriname’s landmass. This is both a challenge to modernization and an opportunity for sustainable development. Suriname is poised to either grow a strong eco-tourism economy, or head in a less sustainable direction.© DR. MARTIN AROSTEGUI

My home base in Suriname is the Kabalebo Nature Resort. It’s a fishing and ecotourism haven located in southwestern Suriname about 150 nautical miles from the capital, Paramaribo. The camp is situated in the middle of impenetrable virgin rainforest. You can only reach the resort by air. The Kabalebo watershed upriver from the resort sits entirely within Suriname’s boundaries, so the system cannot be developed or polluted by other nations. Resort Owner Karel Dawson is dedicated to creating a model of sustainable development for the area. The staff has been trained to conduct all activities in a conservation-minded fashion, and guests are instructed on the protection of the ecosystem. No hunting or taking of plants is allowed, and all fishing is catch-and-release. Though J-hooks are allowed on lures and flies, circle hooks are mandatory when using bait. In addition to fishing, guests can enjoy low-impact activities like kayaking, hiking, animal and bird watching and nature photography. The resort employs mainly local Maroon people, thus providing direct economic benefit to the inhabitants of the region. Most importantly, the resort recently received a 40-year lease from the government. This will guarantee the protection of the river and adjacent rainforest for many years to come.

© DR. MARTIN AROSTEGUIAccommodations at Kabalebo consist of a main camp with 10 double rooms, air conditioning, hot and cold running water and a very nice covered patio where you can relax and take in the view of the mountainous panorama. The food is excellent. Given advance notice, the staff will meet most dietary requirements. A few months ago, Karel Dawson completed construction of Uncle Piet’s Lodge, an outpost camp approximately 40 miles upriver from the main lodge. This camp has four double rooms, running water, kitchen and a covered patio overlooking the river, but the most important thing is that it is adjacent to some of the best fishing areas of the river.© DR. MARTIN AROSTEGUI

A typical week of fishing involves a 40-foot dugout canoe and a day’s journey upriver to Uncle Piet’s lodge. The canoe trip is a great experience in itself. This river has multiple rocky outcroppings that form riffles and small waterfalls along the way. I must admit that I was a bit apprehensive the first time our canoe approached one of these areas, but the staff navigated the obstacles without difficulty. This is a region of old-growth rainforest. Trees tower above the path of the river, and wildlife sightings are common. In addition to howler monkeys, we’ve seen magnificent harpy eagles, macaws, toucans, tapirs, caimans and giant river otters. There are also jaguars and anacondas in the forest, but they are seldom seen.

© DR. MARTIN AROSTEGUIThere are three main target species in the Kabalebo River system: giant trahiras (also known as wolf fish or aimara), red tail catfish, and sorubim catfish. The resort has five dugout canoes outfitted for fishing and twelve guides that are very knowledgeable of all aspects of river fishing. Heavy tackle for catfish is provided to all anglers, but for giant trahira you should bring spinning and bait casting rigs lined with 20-pound mono, or braided line from 20- to 40-pound test. Trahira fishing is best during the dry season from August through March. During this period, low water levels force the fish out of flooded forests and concentrate them in the river. The most spectacular fishing takes place when the fish hide among the rocky outcroppings and shallow rocky pools in the river. A lure or popper worked among the rocks will elicit heart-stopping top water strikes from fish up to 25 pounds. These fish respond well to medium size top water poppers and prop baits you might use for peacock bass. Soft plastic jerk baits on sturdy hooks are worth a shot as well. As for fly-fishing, bring a couple 10-weight rods with floating and sinking lines. I recommend medium size poppers and clousers with a lot of flash and weed guards.© DR. MARTIN AROSTEGUI

Trahiras can also be found concentrated in pools and eddies adjacent to the main flow of the river. These areas also have a large number of red tail catfish up to 100 pounds and a good number of sorubim catfish. The best way to fish the deeper pools is to cast cut bait with a weight on a spinning rod. The catfish get quite large and pull very hard, so heavy braided line is best. Size 10/0 to 13/0 circle hooks rigged with 100-pound cable are the preferred terminal rigs. Fighting a 100-pound fish out of a dugout canoe is quite an experience. I was able to catch trahiras on fly in these pools by using sinking line and flashy clouser flies with medium size weighted eyes. You also need weed guards and plastic coated 45-pound cable shock tippets. The cable is needed because the trahiras have very sharp teeth. You’re also bound to hook up on piranhas as well. They make for a delicious shore lunch.

A trip to Kabalebo is both an exotic fishing experience and a great wilderness adventure. It’s a journey through a majestic rainforest and a protected river system that remains full of life. There are not many places like it left on this planet.

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